So Ladies you know the disappointment of getting your nails to your desired length and you get a break, then the choice becomes cut or patch.
I find that every time I post pictures of my breaks on Instagram I get a lot of questions about how I patch them and what I use. This is one of the photo I posted.
Over the years i’ve tried a lot of different methods, acrylic, glue, teabag method, ASP lightless gel, Orly rescue and my personal favorite Gel.
The Gel I use is a hard gel not a soak off, this gel has a thick viscosity, so if you’re new to gel you may want to try this one first. The other gel is simply called Clear Gel and is very runny like a polish, and a little harder to work with, they work great if all you want is a simple gel overlay. Builder gels are nonporous, so they cannot be soaked off they have to be filed off. I wouldn’t recommend it all you wanted was a bit of fortifications for your natural nails and don’t want something permanent. Soak off gels work great for strengthening even if they have to be reapplied every two to three weeks. I would recommend trying Vitagel.
IBD Nail Bonder, Nail Dehydrate/Ph Balance (you don’t need this unless you have a really oily nail bed and the edges and sides are prone to lifting), Builder Gel, Silk and a flat gel brush. You will also need a UV gel lamp (I use a 9W.)
You will need something to clean the nail and remove oils from the nail plate. Honestly you don’t need to buy the nail cleanser you can use 91% alcohol with a lint free wipe, it works just as well at cleaning the nail but sometimes it takes a bit more work to get the brush clean.
You’ll also need a 180 grit file and a fine buffing block (pictured one rough, one fine) orange stick, nail form and silk.
So today’s victims, the right thumb and left pinky. The pinky has a side break (they are always the first to break) and the thumb both sides are split and peeling because I forgot the rule to not use your nails as tools. (Sorry I didn’t get pictures before I did the repairs.)
Here’s A Quick How To Rundown
Gently push back cuticles, lightly buff your nails to remove the natural shine, clean the nail with alcohol and a lint free wipe. Cut a piece of silk to cover the break and apply it. Brush on a thin coat of bonder over the part you’ll be putting the gel, whether the full nail or just a small section. Cure for one minute in a UV lamp.
Pick up a small amount of gel and apply a thin coat to the patched area and cure for 3 minutes, apply another coat to just the patched area or over the entire nail and cure for another 3 minutes. Wipe the sticky layer off with alcohol, it will not dry completely. File nail edges and buff out the ridges on the nail to your desired shape and your’re good to go.
One other question I get asked is if the looks fake? No it doesn’t. That’s one of the reasons I love using gel, it makes my nails more durable but still flexible and natural looking.
For the thumb, I cut down the split sides to a V shape, put on a nail form and extended the sides out with Builder Gel.
You can see the line where the nail has been extended out.
Please keep in mind that sometimes silk looses its adhesive over time, so when the bonder is applied it will start to lift. After curing apply gel to the edges of the silk and slowly work your way to the center.
If it wasn’t for the odd smile line could you tell?
I covered all the points I could think of and I probably missed a few, so questions are always welcome.
Thanks for reading!